Travel Diary

My reflection By the second of April, some of the main doors, such as the work permit, the right to take a rented accommodation, and overseas journeys, were apparently closed. Alone in a country with hardly any people around who were neither experienced nor experts in the matter of immigration.  In contrast, I was among the people who took desperate measures to stay in the country through illegal payments and made their stay legal. Even though I was a paying guest, my vulnerability allowed Maya and her family to overstep into my space, and my immigration status became a topic of salivating gossip for everyone. They took it as a mission to bombard me with questions and remarks, which affected me deeply, and I had to take the brunt of it silently. Apart from being treated as an unpaid housemaid at Maya’s, chasing the lawyer for the draft of the petition, which was suggested by the solicitor himself and took a hefty amount in advance, was taking a toll on me. In that hapless situation...

A microphone, a mobile phone, and determination. Dekode App: a new era of accessible, transparent journalism.' Casual scrolling through a social media page has never felt so meaningful. Even before I read the post, I saw the picture of an elderly man holding a microphone in one hand and a mobile phone in the other. It was not rocket science for me to recognise the gentleman, Dr Pronoy Roy, a pioneer in Indian television journalism, with his in-depth and impartial news reporting. Dr Roy is widely credited as a transformative figure in the history of Indian broadcast media, having revolutionised the way elections and current affairs were covered on television. I grew up listening to his news reports, election analysis, and, above all, his impartial and unbiased views. It was a decades-long ritual to watch prime-time news on NDTV. Just the sight of the photograph brought back so many memories lost in the labyrinth of memory lanes. The assassination of Mrs Indira Gandhi, the riots in D...

  PAPER PROTECTION  With a television remote in hand, I stumble upon an Argentinian dramedy called 27 Nights based on a real-life story. The protagonist is a fierce octogenarian, vivacious dancer, art dealer, and socialite in an unconventional way. Unlike her friends, her daughters see her as eccentric and a spendthrift. They fear their family fortune will drain away before they can lay their hands on it. So they hatched a vicious plan by teaming up with medical specialists and declared that their mother was suffering from dementia and institutionalised her overnight.  The iron rules of the institution and the strict vigilance of the carers failed to overwhelm the lonely octogenarian’s spirit. She never missed an opportunity to speak to visitors or to the other inmates to contact her friends. After several failed attempts, she succeeded. Her friends and an official from the state social justice team busted her daughters' deceptive plot, and the lady was finally released ...

  Less Ordinary Didi Kadombini Devi, my great-grandmother, I know her well but never met her. Almost seven decades after her passing, especially when one of her favourite grandsons passed away,  I am attempting to bring out certain contrasting characters in that ordinary rural woman, which made her exclusive and worth documenting. There are many instances in the history of the Indian subcontinent during the turn of the twentieth century when women overcame every possible challenge and made their presence felt in paintings to paediatrics, theatre to thermodynamics, Astronomy to Astrology. On the other hand, millions of women in the villages, mofussil towns, and cities lived within the walls of their households and traditions. Their lives were cocooned , restricted to doing household chores; when they reached puberty, they propagated to build their husband's lineage, and in the later stages, these women would live in one corner of the household, often neglected if they depende...

  Dementia-Ben and Boon. An octogenarian with Dementia, abandoned by her daughter and son-in-law, took her last breath on a bed in a home for seniors, clinging to a soft toy to her heart. The other companion was the classical music playing on her television. Before handing over to the undertaker, the dead body was cleaned and washed by two senior carers and finally handed over to an undertaker. The lady who lived in that home for a decade left the place without a whisper or a whimper. Although it was an unfortunate event, carers and their superiors are always prepared for such an event. The concept of accommodation for seniors originated in the Middle Ages in northern Europe and is now a thriving global industry. It is a home where the elderly get medical care, food, and shelter. Finances are often taken care of by the state and their lifelong savings. The system seems perfect for upholding the independence and freedom of these vulnerable people. The residents living in Dementia ...

  East or West. Where lies the acquired taste?   Soups are always exotic, and their fumes emit a nostalgic colonial English aura for people living in small towns in India. Even though, in recent years, ready-to-slurp soup sachets have flooded the markets, middle-class homemakers have placed them along with their spice boxes without any hesitation. Yet, a hot cup of soup still transports Indians to the cloudy, hilly terrains of the far-off European countryside.    In traditional English cuisine, carrots, peas, mushrooms, leeks, chicken, or beef broths seasoned with condiments are cooked in low flames for hours under the strict supervision of the chef. The broth gets cooked till it thickens to get the perfect consistency of soup and served with dollops of heavy cream. It is an ideal appetizer and cosy delicacy to make the chilly evenings comfortable. Soups have always been part and parcel of English supper, and people instinctively like the dish. When elderly...

On a summer afternoon, the immigration counter at Gatwick Airport, London, was thinly crowded, and border police officers sitting on the other side of the counter were visibly relaxed. A young officer was surprisingly friendly and invited me to come to his counter with a subdued smile. It was a welcomingly rare experience for immigrants from third-world countries. After checking my documents, he started a conversation by asking about my master's subject.  Promptly,  after my reply, the next question was whether I have a job in my chosen academic field. After my quasi-negative reply smeared with an aura of hope, he took no time to blow my morale by narrating his tale that he passed with an English major, yet he failed to find a job in his chosen subject and landed up in his current post.  I left the counter without a whimper, just a courteous thank you. We are all aware that the UK Government has taken strict measures to tighten the influx of immigrants, whether legal or i...

Croydon then Museums are one of the entertaining ways to know a new city or a neighbourhood and especially for those who are a newcomer. Well-known museums have varied and rare attractions to put their visitors in awe. But at times, even tiny ones instore surprises for their viewers. Croydon, one of the boroughs of outer London has its museum, conspicuously located in the arts facilities of the clocktower building in Central Croydon. Even though it is small, its collections date back to the Roman era. As you enter its display room, it is hard to miss out on two illustrations made by the first Noble Laureate from India. For a moment, I felt those paintings were surreal; Rabindranath Tagore would not have visited Croydon, of all places, in his visits to England. Soon, the note on the wall from the museum authority settled the whirlwind of queries in my head. The message says a gentleman, Ronald Newson, of Norbury, worked with Rabindranath Tagore in Shantiniketan, a university he founded....

Discover the Flaneur in you. Wandering in a busy street of a city has its distinct pleasures. You drift through the ebb and flow of the city without being identified. A Flaneur does not need to be a philosopher, painter, or poet. The thought is quintessentially French, hard to have an English equivalent that captures the spirit of the Flaneur. Paris has always been Flaneurs heaven. Oscar Wilde, Baudelaire, and other connoisseurs of Parisian streets gave a new high to the concept of Flaneur almost 150 years ago. Relive the life of a modern Flaneur in the heart of Paris. Carry a copy of a map and walk at your leisure on the left bank of Seine to explore the city’s open history book-Latin Quarters. This part of the city houses some of the oldest universities, especially Le Sorbonne. The nearby churches behold you with its flamboyant architecture coupled with a sombre and spiritual ambience. After exploring the bookshops, relax in one of the sidewalk cafes, lounge on a chair with a coffee ...

  Amsterdam.Beyond obvious. Canals crisscrossing the city, moored boathouses, and a series of gabled buildings complete the site of Amsterdam. Stroll around its city center and come across a monument or museum at every hundred-meters stretch. While walking through the canal side, I stumbled upon a board- De Schaduwkade. This road has several metal plaques embedded on the canal wall. Every plate denotes the name of the Jewish resident and the house address before the German army persecuted them. Overnight, more than two hundred Jews were dragged out of their homes and sent to the detention center from De Schaduwkade. A cold shiver runs down the spine, just by the thought of it! Walk further to come across a statue called “De Docwerker” or the Dockworker, honouring the ordinary people who came out openly to protest the massacre of the Jews in occupied Europe. Germans brutally suppressed the strike in just three days. At a distance, a shining star of David catches the attention of eve...

  Where Impressionism exits, Cubism enters. Blue Mediterranean Sea, sandstone Buildings, hilly terrains, and Pinewood forests complete the description of the Provence region of South France. The city Aix-En-Provence offers a lot to artists and painting enthusiasts. Paul Cezanne, the world-renowned impressionist painter, belongs to Aix-En-Provence. He was born and matured as a painter here, worked extensively till his last breath. The landscape and the particular light of province guided his creative journey to the threshold of abstraction. His paintings paved the path for Cubism. The life-size bronze statue of Cezanne facing the well-known La Rotonde fountain at the city centre welcomes every visitor. A quick bus ride takes you to his sunny and quaint studio. Atlelier de Cezanne is on the hill Les Lauves, north of Aix-en Provance. The studio building is in good condition. The first floor has Cezanne's still life objects, furniture, and other personal belongings have been the palace...

From Friendly To Friendship  A foreign land, unknown words, and without a phone! An itinerary for a disaster, but not always. When I was wandering in the boulevards of Nice, South of France, in search of my hotel, neither maps nor passersby could help me. My French inability came on my way. After hours of walking with my bag pack, I saw two middle-aged ladies wearing a kind of kurta pyjama from a distance. Without a second thought, I hurriedly walked towards them to find my way. While talking to these two french ladies, I felt their warmth. I was born Indian, and they were Indians from their hearts. It was spirituality, yoga, Sri Aurobindo ashram- bonded us initially. As I was about to walk towards my hotel, they returned and invited me for lunch in a nearby Indian restaurant. Their warm vibes swayed me away and I followed them without any inhibitions.  We spoke for hours over lunch, and our friendship got strong. As we stepped out of the restaurant and started walking towards...

Earthy side of  Des Champs Elysees! French revolution to fashion revolution, the Champs Elysees Avenue has witnessed them all. From the flagship stores of luxury fashion brands to Michelin star restaurants, iconic cabaret clubs or jewellery boutiques, all have added to its "the must-visit boulevard of the world" status.    The Champs Elysees has an alluring past, apart from connecting two historical monuments of France. The nation and its people have chosen it as the venue for the Bastille Parade.         The western side of the Champs Elysees (around the Arc De Trompe) buzzes with tourists, while its eastern side is quaint and sparsely visited by tourists. This side of the boulevard has a garden (the Jardin Des Champs Elysees) and a series of trees. With the arrival of Falls, the trees teem with chestnuts, and the walkway becomes a sight to behold. Often these heart-shaped fruits scatter on the ground; collect a few, the priceless souvenirs from ...

  Watching the Republic day parade on television again. 26 January 2021, the country celebrated its 72nd republic day, and I celebrated it by watching the republic day parade on the national channel, after ages. Unlike Delhi, 26th January morning in Bangalore was warm, and its streets were not playing any Bollywood patriotic songs.  But the background score of Shehnai and an aerial view of India Gate on the television screen made me nostalgic. It was almost a ritual to wrap ourselves in a quilt and sit in front of the television to watch the entire Republic day parade. It was fun to watch the program by hugging your bolster and sitting next to your parents. My parents were keen on watching the entire show, so we used to turn on the television when the signature music with its yin and yang looking logo used to rotate on the screen. The score still lingers in my ears and gives a sense of joy.  There used to be a sudden commotion in the family with the baritone voice of the ...

  Puducherry. Where I meet Myself.   A part of me that wants to live in the bygone era, a part that wants to unravel the spirituality, a part that wants to live life; I live them all when I am in the quaint coastal town of Puducherry. One part of the city displays its Tamil heritage, the other- white town (Ville de blanc) basks in the philosophy of Laissez-faire. This unique Franco -Tamilain mélange offers the city its unique aesthetics, traditions, histories, and cultural anomalies. It’s a feast to my eyes, the site of electric blue street signs beginning with “Rue”, vintage bicycles perched up against vibrant yellow walls with a hanging lamp. When a tender coconut seller greeted every passerby with resounding Bonjour on the cobbled streets of the white town, the tunes of old French songs played in my head On one side of the white town, Rue Romain Rolland’s occur yellow heritage villas, hipster cafes, and high-end boutiques offer pleasures of life. On the other, Rue de la M...

The Thief Roshan was excited to search for a hotel in Madurai where his friend and family were staying  even in the middle of the night . He was happy because he could come from Delhi to attend his best friend’s wedding. He had plenty of plans for his friend's “2 States” like affair. But he only managed to get a Sherwani stitched and bought a pair of  Juttis  for the occasion. Being a Punjabi, he always ensured that his outfit must dazzle in the crowd, so he picked up a golden pair for the day. The moment he reached the hotel, he was told to get ready for the big occasion. "Wedding at dawn"-the thought baffled many other guests like Roshan. Quickly he got ready and joined the sleep-deprived guests in the ceremonial dance in front of the groom's horse. The venue for the wedding was a temple where the bride’s family was waiting for them. Roshan being the groom’s best man; he got a special attention. Two little boys came to take care of him. They started thei...

Take a break Thankfully, in some areas of Bangalore, you have enough opportunities to take a nature walk. Here is one park which looks just one amongst hundreds but it takes you to R.K Narayan's world. The park is sprawling over a large area with a lake in the midst and a huge Banyan tree on one side. Under the banyan tree, a godly statue is sitting on a pedestal holding a huge sword. As if he is guarding the cradle of nature against the whirlwind of urbanisation that is going on its fringes.  The lake may not be pristine blue but clear enough for the flock of birds to huddle around its banks to look for their prey. A tree in between the lake dots the landscape and makes the view picturesque for everyone to gaze.   The elevated platform surrounding the lake give lovers, loners, friends, colleagues, neighbours and even stray dogs enough reasons to feel lighter and brighter. Those who are sitting on the benches with a pensive face, the cool breeze w...

The abode of clouds- Meghalaya mesmerises every wanderer The magic of Meghalaya spells at the onset of the journey from Guwahati. The highway to the capital of Meghalaya with lush green mountains on either side, hamlets surrounded by areca nut trees, and the pristine view of manmade Umiam lake make your 3-hour car ride truly blissful. Undulating and pine-fresh mountains of the Khasi Hills must have reminded the officials of the British Raj of “Highlands” and they named Meghalaya as the Scotland of the east. Shillong has a long colonial past. It’s a delight to unearth the old-world charm of the city on a bracing wintry walk. After a light drizzle, the city looks green, fresh and wet. Steep streets wind past the stone wall of colonial bungalows; coniferous trees and flowering bushes sooth your eyes at every turn.   Low and sprawling, with wooden frames and corrugated tin roofs, these traditional “Assamese” houses perfectly suit the wet climate. Though the rele...